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Imamzadeh Jafar is a splendid, ancient pale-brick building with round side-towers, arched false-windows and a five-level dome culminating in a brick cone. It looks like a North African castle right off a movie set. Tucked directly behind it is the simpler Chehel Dokhtar, a round tomb-tower in similarly uncoloured brick with a partly preserved band of Kufic script. Between here and the Damghan Tourist Hotel, attractive, stream-divided Azadi Blvd passes a partly restored caravanserai. It's locked but you can peep in through holes in the wall from the park behind.